Q&A

Q. What size jobs will Pyramid do?

A. All types of work: From a simple screen door to a house full of windows and/or railings…from condos with a large number of carports to a screen panel for an enclosure. We find that doing small jobs with finesse will not only help our customers, but can lead to bigger jobs and referrals.

Q. Do you have a shop/show room?

A. Yes we do, and we invite all our customers and future customers to come by.

Q. Where are you located?

A. In Largo, Florida, approximately 1/2 mile N of the intersection of East Bay/West Bay @ 530 Commerce Drive South.

Q. Do you give free estimates?

A. Yes, we do. If you wish, we can also design and engineer your job for a reasonable fee.

Q. When you build your pool enclosures/screen rooms, do you build them on the job?

A. Absolutely not! We give you, the customer, the custom quality job you expect. We begin by measuring all jobs with a transit/laser for exact measurements. Then we lay the jobs out and build them in our shop where we have special tables, punches, presses, and saws. You will never find pieces of sharp metal and debris lying around your house and yard.

Q. How long does a pool enclosure take to build and install?
A. Depending upon the site and difficulty, approximately 1 day to measure and layout, 2-3 days of shop fabrication, and approximately 2-3 days of completed installation.
Q. What types of screening are available?
A. There are many types. However, in our opinion (as well as many other endorsements over the years), Phiferglass screening is the best! Screens come in different weaves. For example, 18 x 14 mesh is standard, with options of tighter woven 20 x 20 or no-see-um screen. There are also solar screens which keep out the heat and harsh rays. Another option is Florida Glass – vinyl and screen woven together which creates privacy because you can’t see through it. So ask your contractor which screen would fit your needs.
Q. How do you maintain the screens?
A. Normally just wash your screen periodically with liquid dish soap or pressure wash on a low level. Doing this approximately 3-4 times a year, depending on the weather and pollen, should be sufficient.
Q. How about cleaning aluminum extensions?
A. Maintain aluminum extensions pretty much the same way as your screens. However, every so often you may need to get on a ladder, with cotton cloth and use some elbow grease! (We sell special products for cleaning). Also car polishes can clean and make your aluminum look newer.
Q. During hurricanes and tropical storms, should I cut my screens to allow more air flow, so my enclosure won’t blow down?
A. Enclosures are designed for winds per code and engineering requirements. Certain screens are designed for your enclosure (that is why permits and inspections are necessary). No, don’t cut your screens. It’s going to be very hard explaining to your insurance company that “I cut all my screens, but the storm turned!”
Q. What type of fasteners should be used?

A. First of all, there are no aluminum screen fasteners, because they are too soft and breakable and won’t hold. Galvanized (even dipped) fasteners will rust and also will cause electrolysis between non-compatible metals. Ceramic coated fasteners, color matched, are one of the best—without costing more and have been proven to last a long time. The best, but more costly, are stainless fasteners, color matched to your screen enclosure.
Note: Your hurricane tie down cables also should be stainless. Make sure they have a vinyl coating because these strands of cable can become loose and be sharp as needles. With vinyl coating this won’t happen.

Q. What is the difference between a “pan” roof and an “insulated roof”?

A. A pan roof has shorter spans, cannot be walked on, will condensate or sweat, and will be as hot as any piece of metal you would touch. A pan roof will keep you dry and, depending upon the site and use, will meet all codes.
An insulated roof is 3”, 4”, 5”, or 6” thick and has a great insulation value of _________________. Insulation is polystyrene (not Styrofoam). The roof can be walked on by numerous people without walk boards. The roof bottom will stay cool and constant year round. Beams can be built into the actual roof for fans and lights without a visible beam or making fans/lights too low. An insulated roof is a premium product for approximately double the cost of a pan roof. Pans come in 12” widths; insulated panels come in 24” and 48” widths.

Q. What types of railings are there?
A. There are mechanical railings which are internally fastened and will last a long time, if properly fabricated. These are less expensive than welded railing. Mechanical railings can also be powder coated. Welded railings are more expensive but require little maintenance. Because of the welds, they will need to be powder coated. But now you can pick your color. Powder coating has 5, 10 and 15+ year warranties available. Vinyl railings are not as strong and usually have galvanized or steel inserts for strength.
Q. How are railings installed?
A. Railings are installed in different ways. First, they can be installed with a casting that is aluminum and has 4 fastening points. Fastening is done by using stainless wedge bolts, then each is capped with an acrylic cap. The second installation method is core boring, using a RD diamond bit boring approximately 3 ¾ RD by 3 ½ to 4” in depth. The hole is filled with epoxy sealant that also will waterproof the concrete deck. Holes are drilled in the post at slab height to allow for moisture and water to drain out. The third way is by side mounting the railing to the deck with heavy extrusions and bolts. This is used when room is tight or penetration of deck is not desired.
Q. What is the railing code?
A. Railings are to be 36” high for residential (42” is recommended) and 42” high for commercial. Around pools, railings must be 48” high. Pickets are usually 1” x 1” and must be installed at a minimum of 4 ¾” on center, so a 4” sphere cannot pass through. Stair railings will usually require grab rails.
Q. How do I maintain my railings?
A. Railings should be rinsed periodically and hand wiped. Also use some car polish approximately every 6-8 months to keep them like new and to prevent salts and other corroding agents from penetrating the aluminum. This may sound odd or funny, but do you wash and polish your car?
Q. What types of railings are there?
A. We have 5”, 6”, 7”, ½ round, custom 8, boxgutter, aluminum, copper, galvanized and special powder coated.
Q. How do I know which gutter size I need?
A. Your gutter size will depend on your type of roof and your roof pitch. Roofs with more pitch or tiles that sit high will normally need a larger gutter in order to handle the water volume.
Q. How should gutters be installed?
A. Gutters should be installed under the house roof drip edge. They should be pitched with levels for proper water flow. They should be secured with internal hidden hangers and screws. Screws hold and don’t come loose. Spikes are visible, don’t hold securely and always come loose.
Q. What about down spouts?
A. Down spouts come in various sizes: 2”x3”, 3”x4”, 4”x5”, and custom sizes. Down spouts are figured and located, based on roof areas, long runs of gutter, roof pitches, trees, etc. It’s good to remember that the bigger the down spout, the more efficient it will be. For example, you can install a 10” wide gutter. However, if there is a small opening and water can’t get out quick enough, it will overflow!
To sum up everything:

1.) Check out your contractor. Make sure he is licensed and insured.

2.) Take time to visit the contractor’s shop/show room.

3.) Once you spend your hard-earned money, you want to make sure someone will be there for you and available to correct a problem.

4.) The cheapest is usually the most expensive! Make sure your proposals have detailed explanations. Don’t assume anything unless it is in writing!!!

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